Paris: day 5

May 13, 2018 • 10:15 am

The post-coffee morning activity was the Foujita exhibit at the Musée Malliol. I posted a bit about Foujita last Caturday; he was an artist with a peripatetic and tumultuous life. Tsuguharu Foujita (1886-1968) was born in Japan and moved to France, where he fell in with a group of famous painters including Modigliani and Soutine, took the first name Léonard, and became a French citizen. Read the Wikipedia entry on him, which includes this:

.. . a Japanese–French painter and printmaker born in Tokyo, Japan, who applied Japanese ink techniques to Western style paintings. He has been called “the most important Japanese artist working in the West during the 20th century”. His Book of Cats, published in New York by Covici Friede, 1930, with 20 etched plate drawings by Foujita, is one of the top 500 (in price) rare books ever sold, and is ranked by rare book dealers as “the most popular and desirable book on cats ever published”.

Here he is; his haircut reminds me of Moe Howard of the Three Stooges:

Yes, his paintings and prints of cats are one reason I wanted to see this exhibit. It was comprehensive, with lots of his work in various styles, including traditional painted Japanese screens. But he was clearly influenced by his friend Modigliani and the other artists he hung out with. Here are a few shots I took of his work, concentrating on the cats:

The cat in the above painting:

Part of one painting:

A small part of a very large mural or painting:

Part of a Japanese-style painted and gilded screen:

He didn’t just paint cats:

My homage to Foujita:

Random photos on the walk to lunch.  Bonbons in a confiseur:

Discarded rose petals in a basket outside a flower shop:

If I could live anywhere in Paris, I suppose I’d choose this penthouse apartment in the 6th on the Quai Voltaire. It’s the one at the top left with the huge single window:

Which gives onto this view of the Seine and Louvre (but from higher up):

Where the greats lived—and died—on the Quai Voltaire:

The Pont des Arts, my favorite bridge, crossed on the way to lunch:

Views from the pont:

Lunch was at Chez La Vieille, an estimable restaurant run, when I lived here in 1989-1990, by the irascible Adrienne Biassin, who would accept reservations on a whim (I had to call five or six times to secure one). After Biassin died, it closed for a long time, but then was reopened about three years ago by Daniel Rose as a bistro.

I was curious to see if it was as good as it was thirty years ago, for this had superb and copious cuisine, including the best magret de canard I’ve ever eaten. The verdict: it’s quite good, but not as good as when La Vieille actually ran it.

The restaurant (about 2 minutes from the Louvre):

The upstairs room, the only place you can reserve. It’s very small; there are only two tables not visible in the picture.

The small menu of French classics:

The wines were overpriced, but the good French cider was not:

Entrées: Green lentils with foie gras and terrine de canard with grated raw beets, pickled onions, and spicy peppers:

Main courses: Paleron de boeuf (deltoid muscle of cow, braised) served with bone marrow and a salad:

I had the classic home-cooking dish blanquette de veau (veal stew), served with carrots, apricots, and rice to mix in with the rich, creamy dish:

One dessert for two full diners: riz au lait (rice pudding) with praline and rose essence. It was excellent.

The verdict: a very good meal but not a great meal. It’s not the restaurant it was under Adrienne. But it’s better than L’Ami Jean, which still disappoints me five days after I ate there.

Sunbathing by man and beast along the Seine:

 

Reader’s wildlife photo (and a ZeFrank video)

May 13, 2018 • 8:00 am

I have a hiatus on my backlog of wildlife pictures until I return on Saturday, but here’s one sent by Stephen Barnard from Idaho: it’s Boris, one of the two American kestrels (Falco sparverius) nesting in a box on his garage. (The female’s named Natasha.) No word about whether there are chicks yet:

As lagniappe, ZeFrank has a new video: “True Facts about the Frog Fish” (h/t: Rick). There is some great footage of this amazing fish; check out the frogfish attacking a flounder.

Knife attack in Paris kills 1, wounds 4

May 13, 2018 • 6:45 am

I received a few worried messages and emails from friends this morning, and didn’t have any idea what they were about until I saw this headline in the NYT (click on screenshot):

Apparently this was an ISIS motivated attack, and the terrorist was captured. At first, when the NYT wrote the attack was by the Opera on the Right Bank, I was stunned, for I had a drink at a cafe right at the Opera last night and am staying only two blocks away. But it was the other Opera—the older one at the Palais Garnier—some distance away. I am near the modern Opera (Opera Bastille) in the Place de la Bastille.

So I am safe, but saddened that this happened again and upset for the friends and family of the four who were stabbed, presumably in the name of a twisted faith. They say the chances of being killed in this way are smaller than the chance of being killed by lightning, but that’s small consolation for the victims, and of course there’s nothing one can do about lightning. Not to mention that most of ISIS’s victims by far are not in the West.

Thanks to my friends for their concern.

Sunday: Hili dialogue

May 13, 2018 • 6:30 am

by Grania

The news this morning is already grim, with a terror attack in Paris last night and another in Surabaya, Indonesia. The other predominant bit of news in Europe this morning is that Israel won the Eurovision. The song is utterly weird, but you can watch it here.

It’s Stevie Wonder’s birthday today, so that gives me the perfect excuse to listen to a couple of tracks from his prodigious catalogue.

On Twitter today:

Cats are kind and gentle and soft

https://twitter.com/EmrgencyKittens/status/995329080953368576

A new and ingenious use for cats

It’s just as well they do not have opposable thumbs.

Ewww gross.

Lotsa feets

And a fossil. Noah had a lot of seriously big marine predators to consider when he built his boat.

Goldilocks: The Revenge

It is a mother’s job to embarrass her children

Lost in translation

Finally over in Poland Hili appears to be approaching apotheosis. Or at least, so she thinks.

Hili: In the beginning was the word and the word was “cat”.
A: And now you are inventing things, too.

In Polish:

Hili: Na początku było słowo kot.
Ja: Ty też zmyślasz.

Hat-tip:  Matthew

 

Paris, Day 4

May 12, 2018 • 12:45 pm

The days here are falling into a rhythm: a coffee for breakfast, a trip to a site or art exhibit in the morning, a copious lunch at 12:30 or so, a longish walk, and then a nap or resting, trying to avoid food coma.

Yesterday fit the pattern, and was a lovely day. (The weather here has been perfect, sunny, cloudless, and warm, with just a bit of rain today.) The morning’s activity consisted of a visit to the Père Lachaise Cemetery, resting place of some of Frances’s (and the world’s) greatest artists, musicians and writers. Located in the 20th Arrondissement and covering 110 acres, it’s a peaceful and atmospheric site to roam, save for the hordes of young folk looking for Jim Morrison‘s grave. It’s even not that painful to contemplate one’s own mortality in such a place!

After breakfast, a morning view of the “July column” that marks where the Bastille (prison) used to be:

Nearby, one of the famous Art Nouveau Metro entrances by Hector Guimard:

Here are some of the graves we found. It’s not easy to find many of them (save Morrison’s, marked by crowds), but you can buy a cheap map or download one from the internet.

A slightly misspelled sign at the entrance asking for respect, and then an interior view of the Columbarium, where ashes are stored. As far as I know, nobody notable reposes here as ashes:

Oscar Wilde’s grave, designed by the sculptor Jacob Epstein, near the uphill entrance. I’m told that women regularly kiss the glass to leave lip-prints, which are then wiped off. That might account for the sign below:

Edith Piaf:

An “unknown”: Suzon Garrigues, who was slaughtered at age 21 in the Bataclan Theater Massacre in November 15, 2015. 88 others died with her in the theatre, 130 in total in the terrorist attacks. Garrigues was a student at the Sorbonne:

Jim Morrison’s well-visited grave. A tree nearby has been converted into a memorial, with people sticking wads of gum onto it. The Greek inscription says, roughly, “according to his own spirit”, which I take to mean “he did it his way”:

Morrison’s grave has gone through several incarnations, including the first one (below), which was the one I saw in 1989. Someone stole the bust. Now there are two guards stationed nearby to prevent anyone from defacing the site:

Marcel Proust (photo by reader Winnie):

Simone Signoret and Yves Montand, buried together:

Other graves, like that of Chopin, proved unfind-able before lunch. Here’s a view of the peaceful walkways of the cemetery:

A token of death (it’s a real bird):

Monuments to the French who died in the Resistance or in the Nazi camps:

Lunchtime, now, and at a place I last patronized in 1990. Was it still good? The Auberge Pyrénées Cévennes in the 11th is a traditional bistro run by an amiable couple, and 30 years ago it was great. Well, it was this time, too. It’s on a desolate side street, and I don’t think many tourists know about it, or would want to schlep out here. Their loss; they are missing a fantastic feed.

The interior:

Entrées: Salad with foie gras, and the house terrine with aspic, which was indescribably good (all washed down with the house Beaujolais). These were all items on the 32-Euro prix fixe menu, a great bargain:

The cassoulet, far too much for one person to eat, came bubbling in a copper pot. It had pork, sausage, confit, and various other meats, all stewed with delicious white beans. It didn’t suffer from the usual problem of this dish: bean and meat flavors not melding. This could serve as the type specimen of the cassoulet:

The contents (about 60% of the total):

Another plat: a luscious sausage with pistachios and green peppercorns, served with the French equivalent of potato salad:

Dessert: the famous house profiteroles, flaky pastry filled with ice cream and then covered with a thick, rich, and slightly bitter chocolate sauce, garnished with sliced almonds. You get three of them, and they are scrumptious:

Patterns in the leftover sauce:

Poire Belle Helene: warm poached pear covered with dark chocolate sauce, all over a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Also splendid:

All the meals here so far have been good, but I’d say that readers should avoid L’Ami Jean, and I’ll inform Adam Gopnik that his review ruined the place! The best meals so far, and ones I’d recommend without reservation to readers, are the ones pictured here and at Josephine “Chez Dumonet”. But order carefully: it’s always best to know the house specialities. This is robust bistro cooking; I am avoiding nouvelle restaurants or any place not serving French comfort food.

I took many more photos yesterday, but I have neither time nor space to put them up here. Stay tuned.

UC Berkeley issues a ridiculous and biased report pretending to support free speech, but really criticizing the Right

May 12, 2018 • 11:00 am

Much more than The New York Times, the Washington Post is becoming the most visible left-wing media site that sticks up for free speech, and by that I mean it will defend purveyors of so-called hate speech  against repeated deplatformings and disruptions by the Authoritarian Left.

To see this, you might want to first read the report of Chancellor of the University of California at Berkeley’s “Commission on Free Speech” issued two days ago (full report here). The commission, consisting of various members of Berkeley’s administration, faculty, and even a few students, was convened to prepare a response to recent incidents of violence or threats of violence occasioned by upcoming speeches by Milo Yiannopoulos and Ann Coulter (neither speech occurred, but Yiannopoulos’s speech, which was canceled, provoked outbreaks of rioting and violence). They were also to make suggestions to make the campus climate more amenable to free speech.

What do you suppose Berkeley recommended? Well, read the report for yourself and you’ll see that the  Post‘s critical summary (click on screenshot below) is absolutely accurate: the report can’t help blaming those pesky conservatives for all the troubles, and trying to exculpate the demonstrators, rioters, and threat-makers for all the expense of putting down riots and providing security. If we could just keep the “hate speakers” off campus, the report implies, all would be well.

But of course they can’t say that and at the same time promote free speech. So they make recommendations, all of which make it tougher for conservatives to bring speakers to campus. They even propose some “free speech zones” away from the main part of campus, including Sproul Hall Plaza (home of the original Free Speech Movement demonstrations), to isolate those speakers whose presence will provoke demonstrations. (That means, of course, right-wing speakers or those liberals, like Christina Hoff Sommers, who don’t adhere to principles of the Authoritarian Left).

And those groups who wish to bring controversial speakers to campus must now not only bear most of the expense, including security, but submit statement of how their proposed speakers don’t violate the campus’s “principles of community.” Big Brother is watching!

Have a look at this article; it’s not long, and I’ve put a brief excerpt below:

From McArdle’s Post piece (my emphasis):

The Berkeley document does not condemn the violence, mind you; that is virtually the only direct mention of it. But apparently, antifa’s violence is now eligible for condemnation, if someone else had a mind to provide it.

They have plenty of harsh words, however, for the conservatives who were targeted. “Many Commission members are skeptical of these speakers’ commitment to anything other than the pursuit of wealth and fame through the instigation of anger, fear, and vengefulness in their hard-right constituency.” Their invitations to speak represented “the assertion of individual rights at the expense of social responsibility by a handful of students.” As a result, the commission finds speech of this kind “hard to defend, especially in light of the acute distress it caused (and was intended to cause) to staff and students.”

In the report, conservatives are active, provoking and triggering. The left-wing activists who set things on fire appear in passive voice, that great grammatical machine for sanitizing the indefensible. Left-wing groups have reasonable fears for their safety from conservative speakers, and the police needed to defend them (from what? Further deponent sayeth not.) Conservative students “allege” that their beliefs make them targets for left-wing professors. And when it comes to the remedies, it’s clear who the commission thinks ought to change their ways.

The commission’s members can’t quite bring themselves to say campus conservatives ought to be prevented from inviting speakers antifa doesn’t like. But they can’t quite keep themselves from implying it, either. Again and again, they impugn the motives of speakers and the students who invite them, complain that conservative groups are a tiny minority (isn’t this supposed to mean we try extra hard to make them feel welcome?), and otherwise suggest that the real culprits are conservatives, not the people committing the violence. The commission recommends thinly-veiled mechanisms to make it difficult for conservatives to stage these events — for example, by requiring student groups to provide one student volunteer for every 50 expected attendees, a rule that is obviously going to disproportionately burden groups representing a small minority.

. . . And I hardly believe that I have to say that — whatever their offenses against common manners and common sense — Coulter and Yiannopoulos are not smashing people in the head with bike locks.  They are not hurling Molotov cocktails. They are not attacking young women with flagpoles. The people doing those things are the ones the commission has tenderly swaddled in the protection of the passive voice. To focus on the motives of the speakers, rather than the violent actions of the protesters, suggests a commission that has allowed their tribal politics to blind them to basic human decency.

. . . And thus the ancestral home of the free-speech movement inches as close as it dares to advocating for censorship of any speech that offends a powerful majority — or even any minority that’s decently armed.

Indeed. I’ve put the executive summary of the report below, but suggest that you read the whole thing if you have time. If you don’t agree with McArdle, then I don’t know what to say, because the report positively breathes enmity towards conservative “hate speech”, and blames conservatives, not protestors, for all the trouble.

Here’s one further excerpt from the report which shows that the Berkeley administration stands ready to counter specified “hate speech” by sponsoring its own counter-speech, rather than letting faculty and administration exercise counter-speech on their own. When the administration so blatantly takes sides in controversies that have not yet erupted, you know that they’re not serious about promoting free speech, no matter what they say (my emphasis):

The Commission does not deny that hate speech can impose serious harms on its targets, and the harm is only exacerbated when the speech is allowed to take place within the boundaries of shared community space.  [JAC: note that nowhere do they define “hate speech.”] At the same time, the campus is part of a larger political culture filled with disturbing and hateful rhetoric (especially on the social media that have come to define the experience of free speech in the contemporary world). The campus should encourage members of the community to function in this environment with a sense of self-confidence and agency.

To this end, the Commission suggests that the Administration respond to the most disturbing events planned for the campus by sponsoring alternative events, perhaps scheduled at the same time, that aim to empower participants, by helping them to understand current events better and to take constructive steps to counter the forces that would seek to exclude and denigrate them. A teach-in with local representatives of the Southern Poverty Law Center elsewhere on campus, for instance, might be an effective counter to celebrity hate speech by individuals associated with the disturbing resurgence of white supremacism. The Chancellor herself, and other campus leaders, could exercise their own free speech rights by speaking out forcefully against hate speech on campus, and encouraging participation in events programmed to counter such speech.

Wouldn’t the Southern Poverty Law Center just love to go to Berkeley to do its teach ins, especially when the University sponsors it? And when the Chancellor or administration suggests this kind of stuff in advance, you know that they’re holding their noses when they talk about promoting free speech on campus.

By all means let the campus organize counter-events. But when it’s done officially by the University administration, that means putting your weight on the scales, not promoting free discussion. And blaming the speakers rather than rioters for violence and disruption is doing the same thing. If students riot when Ben Shapiro talks, and the administration itself organizes anti-Shapiro events, then you know a campus has lost its compass for free expression.

What a sad thing to happen to the home of the famous Free Speech Movement!

h/t: Grania

Caturday felids: Foujita, artists of cats; Bengal cat and otter are BFFs; Cat who walked 12 miles to find his staff, who then wanted him killed, finds a loving home

May 12, 2018 • 9:30 am

Until July 15, the Musée Malliol in Paris is hosting an exhibit of artwork by the Japanese artist Léonard Tsuguharu Foujita (1886-1968), who acquired French nationality and a French first name. At the Great Cat site, a gold mine for feline-themed art, you can read about him and his work, which centered largely on cats.

UPDATE: I saw this exhibit today; photos tomorrow (I hope).

Here are a few excerpts:

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The Bengal Cats site tells the story of two inseparable companions, Bengallegends Sam, a Bengal cat, and Pip, an Asian Small-clawed otter. They’re being housed by a zookeeper who took Pip home because her mother didn’t have enough teats to suckle five pups, and Pip was the odd otter out. (It’s not clear whether Pip is eventually going back to the zoo.

In the meantime, the keeper got a Bengal cat (her dream cat, like mine) to keep the otter company. As hoped for, they bonded big time, as you can see in this video:

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The Independent has a sad yet ultimately heartwarming story of Toby, a long-haired ginger cat who was given away to another family, but walked 12 whole miles back to his original home in Raleigh, North Carolina.  Instead of taking him back, the stupid family took him to a local animal shelter to be euthanized. How could they??

The shelter, though, put Toby up for adoption, and the cat now has a loving owner. Click on the screenshot below to go to the video and the story:

Toby and his new owner:

The people who wanted him to be killed after finding his way back home, well, I won’t say they should be euthanized, but they should be shunned and demonized.

h/t: David, Winnie, Taskin