I am in Bhubaneswar on the east coast of India, having been installed in a very fancy five-star hotel (the Trident), spent the morning talking to the group of young and energetic researchers at the Institute of Life Sciences, and consumed a fine South Indian meal. A few photos. First, the view from my hotel window. This is the fanciest place I’ve stayed in any country with the possible exception of the Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur, India, which I splurged on for a night when I was a penurious backpacker (it’s been voted the most romantic hotel in the world).
Here’s the view from my window at the Trident:
The pool, which I’d love to use (it’s over 40°C), but have no time:
Lunch at the Super Snax at the Mayfair Hotel, a highly rated South Indian restaurant. I had the special uttapam, with two chutneys and sambar:
And for dessert, kulfi, often called “Indian ice cream.” But that does a disservice to kulfi, which is to Western ice cream what a a Bengal tiger is to a chihuahua. Kulfi is granular, made with saffron, cardamon, pistachios, and rosewater, and combines all the flavors and spices of India into a single stick of frozen splendor:
After lunch, we watched a herd of buffalo ambling by on the street outside. It’s illegal to kill cows in India, but buffalo are fair game and, like cows, wander freely. They all have owners, and I haven’t yet figured out how they find their way home.
And, I’m told, this is my schedule until I leave:
My colleagues have planned to take you to Konark Sun temple (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Konark_Sun_Temple) post lunch on 29th with a stay at a beach resort in Puri for a night. On 30th you will drive down to Chilka Lake (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chilika_Lake) from Puri for watching Siberian migratory birds (most would have migrated in early March but there would still be many!) and to spend some time at Wetland Research Laboratory at Chilka. You will get back to Trident for stay on 30th night. On 31st morning they will take you to Bitarkanika (a large mangove area, about 4 hrs drive from here – natural habitat of crocodiles: you will have problems counting them while moving in the boat!) and then stay in a guest house being arranged by government forest officials – there is no other place to stay! They will possibly take you on 1st April morning to Gahirmatha beach where Olive Ridley Tortoises come in hoards once a year for egg laying and hatching has just started in recent days (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gahirmatha_Beach).
I looked up Bitarkanika on Wikipedia and found this:
It is a very good place to sight the giant Salt Water Crocodile, some growing to 23 feet in length, along with other reptiles like the Water Monitor Lizard and the King Cobra. Spotted deers and Wild Boars are abundant in the park and can be spotted at all the major locations. Eight varieties of Kingfishers are found here and can be spotted along the many creeks and riverines within the park.
Now that’s hospitality. My gratitude to Dr. Balachandran Ravindran and his colleagues for their hospitality and for giving me these opportunities.
