I’ve managed to download my photos up to today’s batch, but posting them here is interminably slow. What I’ll do, then, is just show you what I had to eat today when I took the bus into Central Delhi for shopping, and the animals I saw along the way.
First, of course, the noms, which I had at one of my favorite restaurants in central Delhi (Connaught Place): the Vega restaurant in the Alka Hotel. It’s upscale vegetarian, absolutely scrumptious, and the place makes a great thali, which is what you’ll see in the second photo.
First course: a tasty savoury tomato broth served with a glass of sweetened and spiced buttermilk. (Note: the food photos aren’t sharp because I took them hand-held without flash, it was dark, and the exposure time was about a quarter of a second.)

The main meal is a thali: a typical Indian meal served on a flat metal tray (the thali itself) containing numerous portions of different dishes served in metal bowls called katoris. In the center is your starch: usually breads in northern India and rice in Bengal and the south. It’s all-you-can-eat: servers come by regularly asking you if you want this or that katori refilled.
Here are the dishes in this thali, starting at 1 pm and going clockwise: a dahi vada, a southern Indian lentil dumpling in a slightly sweetened yogurt sauce; dal (lentils); sag paneer (spinach with Indian cheese cubes); stewed tomatoes in a spicy sauce; mattar paneer (peas in tomato sauce, again with cheese cubes); above that katori is a pakora (fried vegetable fritter); at nine o’clock is a gulab jamun, a deep-fried sweet in syrup that is part of dessert; fruits with spices and a bit of salt; tomato, lime, and onion garnish; and, in the center, three kinds of bread, including a crisp papadum (they offered me rice, too). As I said, you can get refills on everything but the sweet.
As always in India, I ate it with my hands—or rather the right hand only, for reasons that will be familiar to those who travel in this land. You use the bread to scoop up the other stuff. It’s a bit messier if you have rice!

And the best part for me of the thali at the Vega: a village-style kulfi—Indian ice cream made in small, hand-thrown clay pots (sealed with a strip of dough), and frozen by being agitated in a bath of ice, water, and salt. It’s flavored with cardamon and other spices, has a slightly granular texture, and to me is the world’s best frozen dessert—aside from the burnt-sugar ice cream at Christina’s in Cambridge, Massachusetts. This kulfi is scooped out of the clay pot with a sturdy sliver of bamboo.

Walking to the bus I saw three species of animals all together. Can you identify them? (Don’t overlook the mammal.)

How about this bird?

The campus at Jawaharlal Nehru University (JNU), where I’m staying, is a large patch of forest surrounded by urban Delhi. But it’s big enough to harbor substantial wildlife, including the parrots above, two species of deer (including the sambar), and the species shown below, which, though blurry, is not introduced—it’s native to this area. These are real endemic peacocks, and they (like the deer) play hob with my host’s garden. It’s hard to photograph them as they don’t appear often and they’re quite skittish. But I’m told the males do fly up pretty high and perch on branches.
This guy’s tail looks a bit frayed; I doubt he’ll be getting lucky any time soon:

Finally, another blurry songster, which I’m sure some readers can identify but to me is just “another brown bird.” It could be the same species shown three photos above. Enlighten me!
