Classic American road trips

July 30, 2015 • 10:15 am

I’ve just gone on my own Big Road Trip, but it doesn’t compare to the others made famous in American literature. Over at Atlas Obscura, Richard Kreitner and Steven Melendez have collaborated to make an interactive map of many great road trips in American literature, ranging from Blue Highways to Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance (a book I really never liked) to The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test (a book I loved). The journeys listed are in the lower right of the map below.

Here’s a screenshot of the map:

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And what you can do with it (click on each journey, and then on the dots to see the specific reference to the place):

The above map is the result of a painstaking and admittedly quixotic effort to catalog the country as it has been described in the American road-tripping literature. It includes every place-name reference in 12 books about cross-country travel, from Mark Twain’s Roughing It (1872) to Cheryl Strayed’s Wild (2012), and maps the authors’ routes on top of one another. You can track an individual writer’s descriptions of the landscape as they traveled across it, or you can zoom in to see how different authors have written about the same place at different times.

Of all these journeys, my favorite by far is Kerouac’s On the Road, which had a profound effect on me in my twenties. Supposedly typed on a single sheet of adding-machine paper, largely in one go, it’s the story of Kerouac and his best pal, Neal Cassady, as they criss-crossed America (and even went down to Mexico) in search of nothing but pure experience. I haven’t reread it lately, but the abandonment of The American Dream in favor of wild perigrinations has stayed with me my whole life, even as I pursued an academic version of the American Dream. I did do road trips in my youth, hitchhiking across the U.S., and from time to time would leave the lab behind and travel to Nepal, India, and other remote locales, all in search of the experience denied me in academia.

Kerouac’s trip was by far the most extensive. Here’s a map of his and Neal’s wanderings, followed by one dot-click, so you can see how the map is interactive:

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Now THAT’S a road trip!

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h/t: John S.

Peregrinations: Austin, part I

July 27, 2015 • 2:30 pm

Here’s the first of two posts of my visit to Austin (the second will be the documentation of my getting measured for and ordering custom cowboy boots. On the drive from San Angelo to Austin, which was largely on back roads, I got a good view of Texas country life. Many of the small towns are clearly dying, with their stores shuttered up, but Llano (home of KITY radio!), not far from Austin, retains the charm of small-town Texas life. It appears to be thriving, and has the classic central city hall of Texas, and the row of small stores surrounding its plaza:

Llano 1

This is right out of the movie “The Last Picture Show” (filmed in Archer City, Texas):

lano 2

I arrived at the home of Matt Dillahunty and Beth Presswood in the early afternoon. Both are atheist activists: Matt co-hosts the the well-known Atheist Experience t.v. show and also does dozens of debates with theists, while Beth is co-host of the Godless Bitches podcast. Austin, being the exceptional Texas city that it is (it’s full of signs and bumper stickers saying, “Keep Austin Weird”, attesting to its non-Republican nature), has a thriving atheist community.

Matt loves reptiles, and has had several in his life, including a rattlesnake. Now he keeps two small ball pythons (Python regius):

MD and ball pythong

For lunch on the day I arrived, we drove the 25 minutes or so to one of my favorite BBQ places, Black’s (established 1932), located in the BBQ Capital of Texas, Lockhart. (They have three famous joints in that small town.)

Black's facade

Here’s a video of Texas’s oldest family-run BBQ:

First you go through the “fixins” line to get potato salad, beans, mac and cheese, biscuits, cornbread, and desserts (including a fantastic warm peach cobbler):

Black's line

Then you go to the meat section and specify whether you want, ribs, a giant beef rib (which looks like something Fred Flintstone would have eaten), smoked homemade sausage, and—my favorite—brisket. I got about a quarter-pound of brisket.

Black's meatA lovely lunch (mine): brisket, potato salad, beans, jalapeno cornbread, and, of course, sweet tea. I had peach cobbler for dessert.

Black's lunch

Beth and Matt are the staff for four cats. This is Dax, their orange tabby. He has a few stripes but looks a lot like an Abyssinian:
Cat 1

Matt loves his kitties. He claims that he was once a d*g man, but that cats are “growing on him.” Beth is clearly the motivating force behind the feline melange:

Cat 1a

This is Hana, a beautiful green-eyed tabby:

Cat 2

Bonsai, the tortoiseshell cat:

Cat 3

There is also a calico named Miso, but she’s shy. I snapped them all at feeding time:

Feeding time

Matt is an accomplished magician, and often performs at atheist conventions when he’s not arguing against theism. He was kind enough to set up his magic table and show me a full hour of close-up magic. It was amazing. He did card tricks, coin tricks, and other tricks, and I had no idea how he did them although he was sitting only a few feet from me.

Here I asked him to set out four “perfect” bridge hands in order, and then shuffle them. He did so repeatedly, cutting and shuffling, and continued until I asked him to stop. Then he fanned out the cards and, mirabile dictu, the suits were still in order. (Clearly he was only pretending to shuffle, but it sure as hell looked real to me. This takes skill acquired from years of practice!)

Magic

After I spent 2.5 hours ordering boots (Matt came along because he was interested in boots and owns two pair), we had a nice sushi lunch, Texas style. One of the rolls was called “Texas roadkill roll” and others had jalapenos in them.

Sushi

And that evening for dinner we went to a famous Austin chain of taco restaurants (now found throughout Texas), Torchy’s Tacos.  (Note to Colorado readers: there’s one in Denver, too! Don’t miss it.) Beth favors striking clothes, and here she was a vision in orange:

Matt and Beth

The food was fantastic. We started with a bowl of molten queso and chips to whet our appetite. I had a lemonade that was pink as it was flavored with red opuntia cactus fruit.

Tacos queso

My dinner: a pork and green chile taco and a chicken taco. They were superb: the ingredients were fresh and homemade: the signature of Torchy’s. Two of them (for about six bucks) is an ample meal. Torchy’s is always crowded.

Tacos, tacos

In between boot ordering and eating, Matt and I had lots of conversations about religion, atheism, debating, and so on. I wish I had consulted him when I wrote my latest book: he’s immensely knowledgeable. At any rate, he taped one of our conversations for a video for his Patreon patrons (join the others if you can spare some dosh; it’s a great cause), and I’ll put it up when it’s edited and available.

Thanks to Matt and Beth for their hospitality in Austin!

I’m in Texas!

July 21, 2015 • 4:09 pm

Yes, I know that Texas is full of goddies and Republicans, but somehow when I enter the state I always get a warm feeling—and it isn’t the 100-degree temperature today. Texas is big (880 miles across!); full of oil wells and friendly, no-nonsense folk; there are ranches; there are cowboy boots; and there is BARBECUE—of which I intend to partake copiously.

Anyway, after two pleasant days on Linda Calhoun’s goat farm-cum-dairy (pictures to come), I crossed the state line this morning into Texas, where I’m currently ensconced in a Motel 6 in San Angelo. (They left the light on for me.)

Tomorrow it’s on to Austin, where I’ll visit Matt Dillahunty, famed for the popular public access TV show The Atheist Experience, and for his numerous debates against religionists and creationists. I’ll also have my final pair of boots made.

I’m much looking forward to making Matt’s acquaintance: I met him at the Imagine No Religion meeting in Vancouver in June, where he did his Unholy Trio performance with Aron Ra and Seth Andrews, but we didn’t get to talk much. As you doubtless know, Matt became an atheist after being raised as a Southern Baptist and studying to be a minister. Disenchanted, he never made it to the pulpit, and the rest is history. I’m eager to hear about his experiences and his views on Christianity.

Here’s my official entry into the state:

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As for footwear, I’ve waited five years to get to the top of Lee Miller’s list for custom boots. In March, 2010, I visited Lee’s shop out of curiosity: he is, I think, the best custom cowboy-boot maker in the U.S. (and therefore the world), but at the time of my visit, which I documented in a post, he wasn’t taking new customers.  When I returned to Chicago, I sent him a copy of WEIT out of gratitude for taking the time to show me his operation (I drew a cowboy boot in the book). Lee’s wife Carrlyn, who runs the business end of the shop, wrote me shortly thereafter and said that Lee would be delighted to make boots for someone who could write such a book.

That was way cool, so I got on his list. I’ve now moved to the top, and on Thursday will visit Lee’s shop for the hour-long process of measuring my feet, and the even longer process of choosing the leather, the boot design, the toe shape, heel height, and so on. It’s a complicated process. (Have a look at the link above to see what he’s capable of. Suggestions welcome.)

Here’s a video of his operation that appeared in the Wall Street Journal:

Now y’all will kindly pardon me while I find the best local barbecue. It’s brisket country!

 

__________

 

Postscript by Grania

Jerry asked me to add some clips of The Atheist Experience show, I’m sure many of you are familiar with it. The Atheist Community of Austin also does a podcast called The Non Prophets which differs from the TV show as it is aimed at an atheist audience rather than a Christian one.

Here’s a compilation of funny clips featuring from various shows and really dumb questions from believers.

A classic Jeff Dee exposition rant about why he takes offence at the Christian belief in hell.

Jeff & Matt on a question about the who “caused” the Big Bang

 

Arizona, part deux

July 20, 2015 • 9:30 am

The first of the Arizona travelogues was yesterday’s post on Kelly Houle’s art, which I saw when we visited the home she shares with her husband Ken and her son Benny in Mesa. After looking at the art, we took the short drive to Tempe to pick up Ben Goren.  The thermometer in the car gave the outside temperature (top right): 113° F is the equivalent of 45° C!  That temperature is not unusual for the Phoenix area this time of year, but oy, was it hot!

Temp

Here’s Ben, posing (at my request) next to his 1968 Volkswagen Bus, the vehicle that all of us in who hitchhiked in the 1960s prayed to see coming down the road. VW buses were always driven by hippies: a guaranteed ride when you were thumbing. Ben says this vehicle has about 750,000 miles or more on the original body, though the engine has been replaced several times and a bit more work has been done.

Ben VW

Ben’s trumpet, carefully ensconced in a foam-lined plastic case:

Ben trumpet

We all know that Ben allows Baihu to scratch and bite the hell out of his arms, the sign of true fealty of Cat Staff. Here’s a photo of some of the damage:

Ben Baihu scratches

The Dewey-Humboldt home of Karen and Mike Houle, Kelly’s parents, where we spent a pleasant three days and nights chewing the fat, both literally and figuratively, and hanging out on the front porch (not shown), watching the sun set and Venus and Jupiter appear.

D-H house

An “appetizer” before the first night’s Italian meal. (Karen is of Italian descent.) Just the ticket with the nice Rioja I brought. Best not to eat too much, as plenty more is coming (see below):

D-H, antipasto

A family style Italian meal: pasta with sausages, bread, salad, and Italian wine. From left to right: Kelly, Ken, Karen, Mike, and Ben. This being a table full of heathens, there was no grace, just occasional discussion of the follies of believers.

DH Sausages

And breakfast with bagels, and italian vegetable-and-egg scramble, English muffins, homemade raspberry jam, fried ountry ham, great coffee, and orange juice.

D-H breakfast

Ben considers himself a secular Jew, although only his dad is Jewish. When I told him that his mom had to be Jewish for him to be considered Jewish under THE LAW, he said that he underwent a “conversion” when he was young. I’m not sure that such an act is possible.

I told Ben that if he wanted to violate Jewish dietary law in the biggest way possible, he should eat ham and cream cheese on a bagel. That violates the “no ham” law as well as the “no mixing meat and dairy in one meal” law. He proceeded to do just that. He said it was good, but I prefer lox on my bagel with the schmear.

D-h, ben nonkosher

Mike Houle is an accomplished woodworker (he made the box for Kelly’s book that I highlighted yesterday), and has an immaculate and well-appointed shop in a separate building. Here it is: I’m sure Kelly inherited (culturally or genetically) Mike’s artistic abilities, craftsmanship, and penchant for order.

D-H Mike woodshop

Here’s a pine knot he carved into a grotesque figure:

DH Mike carving

Ben with his BIG LENS photographing the goldfinches at the birdfeeder. You can see the photos in this morning’s “readers’ wildlife” post.

Ben shooting goldfinches

As Kelly is interested in typesetting her miniature books, we stopped in to see Schuyler (Sky) Shipley at his Skyline Type Foundry in Prescott, one of the very few places in the world that still handcasts metal type for use in printing presses. Sky is a fascinating character: he flew 747s as a commercial pilot, and, after retirement, took up making type and collecting and using antique machines connected with printing. He also flies a restored Lockeed P-38 Lightning training plane, and plays bass in a local jazz band. The man is a polymath.

Printer
Here’s one of the machines Sky uses to make type. I believe it’s from the late 19th century. It’s very complicated and requires exquisitely manipulated tuning to make usable type. The hopper in the top is where the metal (a mixture of lead and other metals) is kept molten.


Printer type machine

The end product is superb. I believe Sky can make about 2000 different kinds of type. Here’s one set, which of course has multiple copies of most letters, necessary for setting entire lines of type. The price is remarkably low: this hand-made set goes for about $30.

Printer type

Here’s Sky’s collection of antique printing machines, most of which he uses. They range in size from tiny ones (perfect for Kelly’s miniature books) to big ones good for printing newspapers.

Printer, presses

A linotype machine, which replaced time-consuming hand setting of letters with a typewriter-like scheme in which each slug was set by typing a key (you can see the tricolored keyboard at the bottom). This was the way most newspapers were printed until a few decades ago, when offset printing run by computers eliminated the need for metal type. Sky wants to keep the old craftsmanship going.

Printer linotype

Sky’s Foundry is filled with weird geegaws that he’s collected, like this miniature electric chair in a bottle. He was told that it was made by a prison inmate, but doesn’t believe it.
Printer electric chair

Sedona, the Woo Capital of America (and also the home of rich people who go there in winter) is in a superb setting of red rocks, hills, and outcrops. It’s very New-Agey, with stores selling crystals claimed to have various healing powers, and much palaver about “conjunctions”, “vortexes,” and “harmonics.” There are also many ritzy art galleries catering to the tourists who flock here.

Sedona

Well, if you must have a Catholic church, this one has a lovely setting, embedded right in the rocks.

Sedona church

Lunch at a local restaurant: typical New Mexican food, which is Hispanic but heavy on green chiles. I had a chile relleno (“stuffed chile”: a whole chile stuffed with cheese, or sometimes meat), then battered and deep-fried. This one was coated with a blue-corn batter, which was scrumptious. The chile relleno is one of the glories of Mexican cooking.

Sedona lunch rellenos

A kitschy kat in a local art gallery:

Sedona kitty

We then went into Prescott, a cute little town not far from Dewey-Humboldt. When we stopped in a brewery for lunch, Kelly revealed to my astonishment that she had never tasted beer in her life. Not a sip! So I inveigled her into taking her first sip (remember W. C. Fields’ “The Fatal Glass of Beer”?), and photographed that epochal moment.

She didn’t like it much. This was a local brew made with chocolate, which I thought was good, though far too rich to be a session pint.

Note the use of two hands to hold the glass, a sign of someone who’s not hoisted many brewskis:

Kelly's first beer

We finally went home to drop off Ben and take me to my car, as I was headed for Las Cruces. When we pulled into Ben’s driveway, Baihu was sitting in the window with a most reproachful look:

Z Baihu at home

Thanks to Kelly and Ken, and to Mike and Karen, for their generous hospitality.

PSA and some more peregrinations

July 15, 2015 • 11:30 am

by Grania

Jerry will be leaving Arizona and is then on to New Mexico in a couple of days and will then be traveling through to Texas, specifically Austin and afterwards to Louisiana.

If you are in the area and want to meet up or visit with him, either leave a comment or drop him an email so that we can organize something.

Here are some photos sent on by Kenneth Howard of Jerry with Kelly Houle and Ben Goren at the house of Kelly’s parents in Dewey-Humboldt, AZ.

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Finally, with some red rocks in Sedona AZ. I’m pretty sure we should try to caption this photo too. 😉

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