We honored the Good Friday holiday (it is a day off in India) by visiting two famous and ancient Hindu temples, perhaps the most famous in the state of Karnataka. The temple of Hoysaleswara in Halebidu (Halebid) dates from the 12th century CE, and was built in a mere thirty years. What’s remarkable is the quality of carving, and the fact that the stone was black basalt—very hard to work. It’s in remarkable shape and is dedicated to the god Shiva.
The Chennakesava Temple, 35 km away, dates to the same era, and is dedicated to a form of the god Vishnu. The linked Wikipedia articles should be consulted for more photos, detail, and history. Here are a few pictures I took:
These are low, star-shaped temples with inner sanctums containing effigies of the gods (and Shiva’s lingam at the Halebidu Temple, shown below):


Closer inspection reveals some of the finest and best-preserved temple carvings I’ve seen, especially because they’re almost a millennium old.

A lintel above the main door:

Nandi the bull, Shiva’s mount:


Narasimha (lion man): an avatar of Vishnu:

A mythical but oft-seen animal that appears to be an amalgam of an elephant, a crocodile, and a horse:

A group of colorfully dressed ladies admiring the sculpture:

A corner of the temple:

It’s bloody hot here, and people took refuge from the sun where they could:

The ladies of Karnataka are famous for wearing flowers in their hair:



A green-coconut stall was doing a land office business in the heat. They chop off the top and you drink the sterile and refreshing coconut water:

The Chennakesava Temple at Belur:

The carving is equally intricate, but has become more eroded and effaced than that at the Halebid temple:

The lion-man incarnation of Vishnu:

A beautiful dancing apsara, one of the finest I’ve seen in India. Remember, these sculptures are almost a thousand years old:

Arjuna the archer, whom you’ll have encountered as the confidante of Krishna in the Bhagavad Gita (one scripture that I really enjoy reading):

Krishna lifting the Govardhana mountain:

A priest of the Belur temple. The string looped around his shoulder indicates he’s a Brahmin, a requirement for priesthood:


I encountered my first Indian toll roads on the drive to the temples; here’s one of the local toll-takers

And finally home to dinner, where Goonda (“rowdy”), Mr. Das’s favorite cat, occupied his privileged position in the kitchen. Goonda is about 8 or 9, and came to Mr. Das from a rescue organization several years ago. At that time he’d lost one eye, presumably in a cat fight.
