Readers’ wildlife photos

Today is the third and last part of Athayde Tonhasca Júnior’s travelogue, including ancient paintings, from Brazil (part I is here and part II is here).  Athayde’s captions are indented, and you can enlarge his photos by clicking on them. Without further ado:

Back in the day. Way, way back, Part III

JAC: the introduction to part I:

The Brazilian north-eastern hinterland is not a hospitable place for an outsider. Except for a short and intense rainy season, this is a dry, dusty and sizzling territory: a land of the cactus, thorny scrub and stunted trees. The native Tupi speakers called this semiarid region caa (forest, vegetation) tinga (white), and the term was adopted by the Portuguese settlers as caatinga. But the apparent harshness of the landscape misrepresents its ecological importance. The caatinga is a biota found nowhere else in the world, harbouring more than 2,000 species of vascular plants and vertebrates, with endemism in these groups ranging from 7 to 60%. And like every other Brazilian ecoregion, the caatinga has been severely degraded and fragmented. But its plants and animals have one place of refuge: the Serra da Capivara National Park in the state of Piauí. The park is a haven to numerous birds and endangered mammals such as the giant anteater (Myrmecophaga tridactyla), three-banded armadillo (Tolypeutes tricinctus), jaguar (Panthera onca) and other cats, and the maned wolf (Chrysocyon brachyurus).

The 129,140-ha park contains a massif of sandstone sediments formed some 430 million years ago when the whole area was submerged under a sea. The massif, smoothed by water and wind, was once the seabed, and pebble conglomerates on top indicate an overlying beach.

New:

In 1963, Niède Guidon organized an exhibition of prehistoric paintings in São Paulo. She was approached by one of the visitors with some pictures of ‘Indian paintings’ from places near his property in Piauí, a remote and forgotten region in the 60s. Guidon saw right away that those pictures were something completely different. She only managed to visit the area about 10 years later, and thanks to her, Serra da Capivara was discovered by the outside world – including Brazilians.

Pedra Furada (pierced rock), near the place where Guidon’s excavations provided evidence for a much earlier human presence in South America than previously thought:

Zuzu, one of the oldest human specimens found in South America. Assigned as female at discovery, later transitioned to male by researchers. Zuzu died approximately 9,600 years ago (Museu do Homem Americano).

How Zuzu may have looked (Santos & Moraes, 2023):

Superstition helped preserve Serra da Capivara. Tales of eerie voices and floating apparitions meandering through the canyons kept people away (can you see the face profile on the left wall?). Local elders warned youngsters about bad things happening to those who disturbed the ‘Indian paintings’:

Many of Serra da Capivara‘s pre-historic paintings suggest that life among the cliffs and canyons was not peaceful and idyllic. Here we witness a possible murder or execution:

A shagging scene, but not of a vanilla variety. The supporting character on the right hints of a threesome or, ominously, a non-consensual act:

Leaping deer:

Despite having survived for thousands of years, the wall paintings suffer the ravages of weather. The most vulnerable ones have been shielded from running water:

Some of the park’s residents like the ubiquitous coroa-de-frade (friar’s crown, Melocactus zehntneri) are on standby to inflict pain on the absent minded:

A slice of the bottom of the sea. Our minds need training to see things in geological time frames:

A parting view of Serra da Capivara. If you sit here for a while, you’d be taken by the silence. Nothing seems to move, and you only hear your own breathing:

Going home: 300 km to the airport on a mostly empty road, although you need to watch for goats grazing by the roadside. All that changes when you pass the towns along the way: mountains of plastic bags, rubbish and rubble everywhere. Places that don’t do justice to a small paradise hidden in the caatinga heartland: