My visit to Pune, as it was in Chandigarh and shall be in Thiruvananthapuram (the new name of Trivandrum), were at the Indian Institute for Science Education and Research (IISER), which teaches science to undergrads and graduate students, as well as harboring many labs with their complements of researchers, students, professors, and postdocs. You can read more about this small but elite network of institutions here.
These are fancy and well-funded institutes which take their mission seriously; there is not only high-quality research, but groups devoted to teaching and outreach to secondary schools. And of course there are undergraduate courses. Admission is selective: I’m told that less that one tenth of one percent of the applicants get in. That’s far more selective than Harvard.
Here’s the “Main” (Administration) building at IISER Pune, where I am now. This is where I have an office (they gave me a nice room to work in and meet the researchers).

The entrance to the building, lined with bronze busts of famous Indian scientists:

My office, nicely air-conditioned and with wireless Internet. There is an espresso station down the hall, and from time to time a man pops in and asks me if I want coffee or tea. The result is that I am drinking too many cappuccinos!

This is a classroom and auditorium building, and it’s where I gave my three talks here. As you see, the architecture is modern and very nice. 
This being India, IISER Pune has its own high-level cricket stadium. Here it is. It’s suitable for international matches except that it seats only 2000 people, about 1/30th of what they’d need for pro games. 
Nearly all students and faculty live on campus, which is very convenient (and the campus is beautifully landscaped). Here’s the house of the Institute’s director.

A strange cat-related mural on the outside of one of the student residences:

The night before last, we went to a fancy dinner at a hotel restaurant whose name I can’t remember. We sat outside by the swimming pool and gorged ourselves on fancy food, starting with masala papadum, the familiar lentil-flour crispy bread, but this one topped with all kinds of spicy goodies:

Then two rounds of appetizers: first grilled mutton, chicken, and other meats (the Indians excel at grilling and kebab-making):

and then grilled vegetables, some filled with Indian cheese (paneer):

The main course: a HUGE masala chicken dish, more than enough to feed seven people (one guy took home a pi-dog bag). The chicken is overlain here by sculptured vegetables, garnishes. and shreds of boiled eggwhite:

And of course the obligatory basket of rotis. parathas, and naans to sop up the chicken. I can eat endless amounts of Indian bread, which makes me a northern Indian by taste (Southerners and Bengalis prefer rice as their sopping-up starch.) Picking up food with rice balls is an art I’ve not yet perfected, and I make quite a mess!

My plate, loaded (and soon ready for refills):
Before going out for dinner this evening (I am having a rest day), I lunched in the canteen with a local foodie professor. We had a vegetarian meal, but then the lovely Nepalese manager, Ramji, offered to make us an omelet. It came in the form of egg bhurji, in which the egg is chopped up with hot chilis and onions (many variations exist):
After lunch, Dr. Dey and I walked around campus and, besides talking science, inevitably arrived at the subject of food. I mentioned that I had not yet tried the local kulfi, the fantastic Indian version of ice cream. I had heard there was a world-class kulfi shop in Pune, and regretted that I hadn’t tried it. I was informed that, in fact, the student cafeteria had on sale kulfi made in that very shop, so we stopped in at the refectory for a treat. Here’s what the students have on offer; this is very cheap food. At about 65 rupees to the dollar, a full veg or non-veg lunch runs you less than $1.25:

And our kulfi: malai kulfi made with milk boiled down to a thick, creamy substance called rabri. Kulfi varies in quality but I’ve never had a bad one. This one, however, which was thick and not watery, tasting of pure, fresh cream with no detectable ice crystals, was sublime.
I will clearly be gaining weight on this trip, and must revert to a severe fasting regime when I return to Chicago early in January.