Last day in Paris: Rain and no restaurants

March 2, 2020 • 10:45 am

Sadly, my dining pal (like Matthew) came down with the lurgies this morning, and so we had to cancel lunch at d’Chez Eux (I believe a reader suggested that restaurant, and I was keen go to as I’d heard of it as a good bistro and also knew it had a well-respected rice pudding).

I then went for a long morning walk through my old haunts in the Sixth Arrondissement (I used to live on the Rue Jacob—in a garrett!). On the way back to my hotel, I procured a nice crispy baguette, a good thick slice of St. Nectaire cheese, an apple, and a liter of red grapefruit juice. I also stopped by a fancy bakery and bought a giant cramique for later and tomorrow morning, when I take the train to the airport at 5:30 and won’t get breakfast.

It’s nice to have these picnics, as I haven’t tasted cheese since I’ve been to Paris this visit. Still, as soon as I finished my extemporaneous lunch, my eating pal called and said she’d miraculously recovered (she’s very resilient, especially when restaurants are in the offing), and that we should go out for lunch. But, as Beethoven reportedly said when a case of Riesling was delivered to him on his deathbed, “Pity, pity, too late. . . ”

The next meal I have will be (ugh) on the United flight home. Ceiling Cat help me! I can’t even use the Star Alliance Club at Charles de Gaulle because I’d have to be flying business or first class.

Here’s a cramique from Fred’s (not the one I bought, which I didn’t photograph). Mine is about 8 inches across: a really belly-buster.


23 thoughts on “Last day in Paris: Rain and no restaurants

  1. After reremembering my ancient Julia Child cook book I made a clafoutis with sour cherries from last summer marinated in brandy and maple syrup.
    Worthy of a Parisian Bistro !

  2. It’s still early in Paris, you could get a decent dinner and then fast through the flight – which is clearly the best way to deal with United’s (or pretty much any other airline’s) food.

    Happy travels. BTW there were about six square feet of open water on the pond this morning and two mallards arrived to compete with a pair of Canada geese for space. Had seem neither liquid phase water or ducks at home in a few weeks, but it cracked 14C yesterday so everything is thawing – for now.

    1. Naah, after my big picnic lunch, I have no appetite for dinner. I’ll have some coffee with my leftover cramique at the airport.

      I wonder if my mallards will come back to nest eatly early this year.

      1. I wonder if my mallards will come back to nest eatly [sic] this year.

        A Coynian slip after showing the pic of properly cooked duck breast yesterday?

        Quelle horreur! 🙂

      2. According to my Wisconsin native postdoc there will be three more snows after she sees her first Robin – none spotted yet. So spring won’t come for a while (if ever). I’m not sure about this farmer’s almanac stuff but it did work out last year (anecdotes are not data)

    1. This is a case, I think, of acting prematurely, but I am not an epidemiologist so I won’t second guess. We’ve had 178 cases in France with three deaths, the last an 80 year old woman from China. I’m glad I saw the Leonardo exhibit on its last day a week ago, and when the Louvre was still open.

      It is a very crowded place–surely the most crowded exhibit space in Paris.

      1. It may be of some comfort to you – I read about exposure during air travel, and it’s not as bad as you might think. 1. The air filtration system on an airliner is very good. 2. The C virus seems to be spread by large droplets not fine spray (from a sneeze). Thus, you are pretty safe unless you are sitting right next to a person who is contagious. Don’t touch door handles and wash a lot. Any good news is welcome, I always say.

    2. Banning gatherings of more than 5,000 is bizarre – 4,999 would be OK?!

      The cat is out of the bag… it has been nice knowing you all!

  3. ‘Cramique’ is a Belgian/Dutch bread, from Flemish ‘Kramiek’, a milkbread (melk-mik) with dried raisins (‘krent’, the dried raisin from the city of Corinth in Greece), ‘krentmik’: kramiek.

  4. Your pal swift recovery just in time for some Parisian grub. Miracles do happen! But this time c’est la fin des haricots.

      1. Your post, naturally, prompted an investigation of frailty/fickleness/women. Shakespeare, of course, but also this from Michelet:

        “Woman is a miracle of divine contradictions.”

        Which I find charming. If it isn’t (or women aren’t), I fully expect to be cancelled. Along with Michelet.

        Your use of “le tongue execrable” reminds me that I earlier asked Google to translate “Professor Chat du Plafond”, which our host claimed was his French designation.

        Turns out it means “Professor Ceiling Chat”, which seems roughly correct.

        1. Are you referring to Jules Michelet, the historian, whom I’d not known about until now? Speaking for myself, I find the expression you quote charming, too. Though I’m sure there are those who wouldn’t. These days, though, “a miracle of divine contradictions” might more concretely describe a transsexual.

          Your response prompted me to do some investigation to something about Michelet, whether or not it’s the Michelet you quote. One of the best aspects of this website is that there’s such a wide variety of things to learn about and investigate.

          I found quite a few French idioms having to do with cats.

  5. Thanks for all the lovely posts of your Paris trip. I haven’t commented on them, but I’ve read and enjoyed them all.

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