Reader Richard Bond sent some photos of ungulates from Kenya:
These are some more photographs of animals in Tsavo East that I took during the same visit as those of elephants that I recently sent you.
The first two are female (no horns) waterbuck (Kobus ellipsiprymnus), from the defassa group of sub-species). They need ready access to drinking water, hence the name, and I saw these near to the Voi river, one of the few reliable water sources at the end of the dry season.
The next two photographs are male (with horns) impalas (Aepyceros melampus). Those horns are extremely sharp. I used to wonder if their name came from the Latin impalare, but it is merely a happy coincidence. I find it interesting that the flight alarm pattern on their buttocks is similar to that of the waterbuck, although black instead of white.
Next is a Grant’s gazelle (Nanger granti, not sure of the sub-species), almost certainly male, judging by the length of the horns. Horn shape in this species is quite variable, but these are particularly elegant and look pretty efficient. Like those of the impala, they are extremely sharp. One guide told me that gazelles occasionally kill careless cheetahs. The males fight to control small harems. One feature that I only noticed later is the folding of the skin on the neck. I thought it odd that such animals would carry any fat, but it turns out to be very thick skin, presumably selected for success in fighting other males. Impalas show something of the same thing.
Rather surprisingly, since they are generally so common, I only saw one small herd of plains zebras (Equus quagga boehmi). If I had been quicker I would have caught warthogs (Phacochoerus africanus massaicus) in the same shot, but they are so nervous that I have never managed to get a decent photograph of them.
Next are some of the smallest of the African antelopes: Kirk’s dik-dik (Madoqua kirkii). The one in front without horns is a female, with a male behind. They are about the size of a domestic cat, with longer legs, and with females larger than males. Like warthogs, they are extremely shy. I have seen them quite frequently as monogamous pairs, but they usually vanish into the bush before you can get your camera ready. I asked the guide why these were in a group and not as shy as usual, and he said that it was the breeding season. I do not know why monogamous animals would lose their shyness and form herds to breed.
In contrast, the next is one of the largest of the African bovids: a cape buffalo (Syncerus caffer caffer). My Field Guide to African Mammals says that they rarely exceed 800 kg, but I think that this grand old bull must have been one of the few. He had probably been chucked out of the herd by younger rivals. Judging by the state of his horns he must have had plenty of fights; since losers tend not to come back for more, he probably won most of them and sired many offspring. The birds on his back are two species of oxpeckers: red-billed (Buphagus erythrorhynchus) and the commoner yellow-billed (Buphagus africanus).
I always enjoyed watching Cape Buffalo while I was on Safari. I think it was Hemingway who said: “They look at you like you owe them money.”
Spot on, that is.
Nice quotation, and apt, but I think that it applies only to the bulls.
Impala have markings on their rears which can look like an “M”. I remember our guide making the joke that, just like the US has McDonalds, in Africa they also use an M to mark their ‘fast food.’
I see what he did there.
Very nice seeing these animals where they should be and not in a zoo.
Very interesting. I suppose the herds of males are ‘bachelor herds’, where the males have not succeeded in gathering a harem.
Here in Northern California we have a number of “watering holes” where “bachelor herds” form. It’s nice to see that the humans are not daunted at all: they’re right out there on the dance floor having a good time – I’d say they have a better time than the males have in mixed herds!
Coincidentally, a dear friend of ours operates such an establishment where many of the males wear bovine hides.
Great photos of gorgeous animals. And interesting notes, too.
Great stuff, thanks.
Are these very recent? If so, would you please comment on travel in Kenya these days?:
1. Safety
2. Convenience
3. Public transport
4. Social situation
5. Attitude towards tourists
6. Cost
Thanks!
It sounds as though you are really interested in visiting Kenya, and I thoroughly approve. I have been there fourteen times, and every time has been excellent. Re your queries:
Safety:
Little problem: there are parts of Nairobi and Mombasa where you would be foolish to go after dark, but that is true of cities in many western countries. Most of the coast is fine. Al-Shabaab is almost entirely confined to the north-east, and security in Nairobi has been improved after the attack on the shopping mall a couple of years ago. For several recent visits my base has been Watamu, which is safe.
Convenience;
English is widely spoken: for many Kenyans it seems to be a second language. There are plenty of ATMs, and major credit cards are very widely accepted. It is a good idea to take local currency for taxis, although US dollars and Euros are normally acceptable. I have never been ripped off over the exchange rate when using USD in airports and restaurants. Car hire is readily available, and not too expensive. It is safe if you drive defensively, and are not in a great hurry, although Kenyans drive on the left. The biggest problem is the abundance of invisible speed humps in villages. They are supposed to be marked by whitewashed boulders at the side at the side of the road, but most of these have been nicked for other purposes.
Public transport:
This is a bit limited. There are plenty of buses on main routes, but they tend to be crowded and slow, but interesting. On one occasion we took a bus south from Mtwapa, and were joined a couple kilometres later by a policeman handcuffed to a prisoner on his way to trial in Mombasa. The dreaded matatus (minibuses) are much safer than they used to be and are very cheap, but probably a little intimidating, although the drivers and passengers are perfectly friendly. Before it is replaced by a modern line, I want to take the railway between Nairobi and Mombasa. I was booked on it two years ago, but the derailment of a freight train at Voi had closed the line for a couple of days, and I had to fly instead. Taxis are a good and safe option, but expensive: Mombasa airport to Watamu is about 90 minutes and costs around 7000 KSH, about 90 USD. Wildlife safaris are reliable and safe, with highly trained driver/guides.
Social situation:
The occupants of the tourist hotels are mainly European, but with a large minority of Kenyans. Social mixing is relaxed. There are very few Americans. A current problem is that many visitors have been unnecessarily scared off by the exaggerated reports about the security situation, and hotels are under-occupied. I had intended a visit last February, but, being on my own, I was put off by the probable lack of scope for making friends.
Attitude towards tourists:
Excellent. With the partial exception of the Masai, native Kenyans are naturally friendly, although one occasionally meets Arabs who do not relate well to other people. Hotel employees are extremely helpful. Most Kenyans are religious, either RC or Muslim, but almost all are very relaxed about it. A few hucksters hang around tourist areas, but the Kenyan police, appreciative of the value of tourism, have clamped down on these, and being hassled by them is no longer much of a problem.
Cost:
For me, travelling from Scotland, Kenya is comparable to or a little less than a holiday of the same length on the mainland of Europe. My last flight from Edinburgh to Mombasa was about £750, about 1200 USD. Kenya Airways used to have a reputation for unreliability, but they are now my second favourite airline (after BA). They fly modern aircraft: 787s and Embraer 190s. Hotels are cheaper than in Europe, and there is a fairly good local lager, appropriately called Tusker, at around 2 USD for a half litre. One of my all-time favourite restaurants is the Tamarind at Mombasa, which provides elegant dining and excellent food at surprisingly reasonable prices.
Wonderful photos!
Currently typing with kitteh lying on my chinny chin chin🐱
I’ve only been to Kenya once, I think it was 1973, and we spent Xmas in Mombasa before heading out to Tsavo and other parks. Would love to go back.
Tsavo East is my favourite wildlife reserve. and Voi Safari Lodge my favourite place to stay. It is a common stop on safari tours on their way to Tsavo West, Amboseli, and onwards. Did you stay or have lunch there?