This is what I woke up to this morning: the view of the Douro Valley from my balcony. The vineyards you see in the distance are actually on the other side of the river of this very steep valley, and you can see the terraces where the grapes for port are grown (click all photos to enlarge):

But before we arrived, I gave a talk at the Fundação Serralves yesterday afternoon; it’s the cultural center of Porto, situated on the grounds on an estate once owned by the wealthiest man in the country. We had a wander on the property before my talk:

The Foundation bookshop was full of books on art. There was exactly one science book: Darwin’s Black Box, by Michael Behe, a pro-ID screed. I made a big noise about this in my talk! Here is one of my hosts, ornithologist Martim Melo, holding the offending book:

After the talk, we repaired to the property of the parents of my official host, Nuno Ferrand. After a harrowing two-hour drive up the Douro Valley to the family port farm, Nuno’s parents, Maria and Nuno Sr., both over eighty, greeted us with a sumptuous dinner. A traditional Portuguese feed starts with soup, and so we began with spinach soup, produced (like nearly everything else in our dinner) on the farm:

Progress comes slow to this rural area, though the ports are now transported down the river not by small ships, but by tanker truck. However, this village didn’t even get electricity until ten years ago.
There was a wonderful local relish made from macerated unripe olives—great with bread! I can’t remember its name, but I’m sure at least one reader will:

Then chicken and rice and a fantastic local wine. With the exception of port, the wines of Portugal, both red and white, are of a very high standard. I’ve not had a bad bottle since I’ve been here. Sadly, because production is small, they’re rarely imported to America. And they are inexpensive: I’ve rarely seen a bottle for more than 13 Euros in a restaurant, and they’re half that in the shops.

Dessert was a humongous bowl of custard topped with meringue, followed by a “tower” of fruit grown on the property: grapes, pears, and ripe green figs. I love figs, and they’re pricey and hard to find in the U.S.; I of course gorged myself on them:

To finish, port, of course: but a port whose grapes were picked, vinified, and aged on this property. It was barrel-aged ten years before bottling, and so approximates a tawny port; but it had the freshness and fruitiness of a vintage port. Delicious! Note the private label:

Today we inspect the property and the wine-making process; the harvest and crushing are going on at this moment. It’s a beautiful day in the Douro.