On this day the captain and expedition leader decided, since we were in the area, that they’d take the ship as far north as it would go before encountering the Arctic sea ice that would prevent further progress. (The Ultramarine is a polar ship, but it can’t plow through thick sea ice). We made for point #5 below where the ice stopped us. (This map was provided by the ship.)
The view from my cabin window when I woke up.
We’re approaching our northern limit.
As we headed north, I had a hearty breakfast in the main dining room. Look at all that food (it’s buffet style, of course). I often had a made-to-order omelet, as I almost never eat breakfast, much less eggs, when I’m at home. I avoided the “Healthy Corner” except from fruit juice.
As we got closer to the edge, passengers went out on deck to watch our approach:
Ice everywhere (click to enlarge the panorama). And yes, it was that blue:
About as far north as we can go:

Floating sea ice, broken off the shelf, was everywhere:
Meanwhile, the bridge was active as the ship needed to stop dead before it hit the ice. Second from right is the captain.
Sarah, the expedition leader, is facing me. She was always upbeat: a great leader:
As we headed north, the ship stopped because a polar bear (Ursus maritimus) was sighted off the starboard bow. And, sure enough, there was one, and it was eating the carcass of what we were told was a sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus). Who knows how that whale got onto the ice floe, but it was surely a bonanza for the bear, which was feasting on the best part: the whale’s blubber.
I had my Panasonic Lumix point-and-shoot camera cranked out to the highest magnification (30X) and the boat was rocking, so this is the best I could do. Still, it was a fantastic sight: my first polar bear sighting and my first sperm whale sighting (if that’s what the whale was). This, to me, was the highlight of the trip. What you see is the world’s largest living land predator eating the world’s largest living marine predator!
I took a lot of photos. In reality, the photos are better than what I could see because they’re zoomed it. I was kneeling on the deck propping my camera on a rail:
Elsie Holzworth, a neighbor, touched up the photo above using computer magic:
There were plenty of birds around hoping for a nosh:
The bear walked away for a while, but then returned. I suspect he wasn’t going to go far lest another bear find the carcass. It was a fantastic sight.
We still weren’t as far north as we could go, so I went to look at our position in the lounge, and then had lunch in the informal spot. At this point we were at 81°53.89′ N, not quite as far as we’d get (red rectangle is mine):
After a big breakfast and no hikes onshore, I had a light lunch: a bagel on which I put the equivalent of lox. Some salad for the requisite greens. And, of course, several desserts, one of which—rice pudding with cherry sauce—was fantastic:
Too many to eat them all!
I had a large portion of rice pudding, as it wasn’t a normal dessert onboard:
And then we stopped, as far north as we could go. I was the first person on the bow, so I got to hold the sign and have my photo taken:
82 degrees north latitude! This was the farthest north the ship had ever been, the crew and captain had ever been, and of course the passengers had ever been. An AI question says that at this point we were about 332 miles (534 km) from the North Pole.
There were celebrations with champagne, and some of the naturalists dressed up as Arctic animals:
We then turned around and headed south (see map at top). Little did I know that the next day was going to be absolutely spectacular, seeing hundreds of thousands of seabirds nesting on a precipitous cliff, and watching from Zodiacs below. That will be in the next installment.






























“How do you eat a whale?” Polar bear: “One bite at a time.”
Great stuff, Jerry. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing all these photos and details about your trip, even the mundane photos like shots from your cabin. I’m sure I will never take such a trip and it is great to get a good perspective of what the trip is like.
Those are such ominous views outside your stateroom window. Eerie beauty.
And then there’s lunch!
Such awesomely cool photos of the bear and the whale! Just WOW!
Wonderful photos and commentary. Thank you. The ship had to stop at the point of the Arctic sea ice – 82N. The ice looked to be flat and broken up. How thick were these pieces? Do the ice bergs that calve off glaciers on the land just travel south in the currents or is there some current moving north?
Excellent. That trip looks like the fanciest most deluxe tour I’ve seen you take in the decade or so I’ve “known” you.
Top notch!
D.A.
NYC
Thank you for sharing these Jerry! Really fun photos. We love following your travels. Lucky you, seeing a Polar Bear in the wild!
Your Lumix is performing well at its maximum focal length.
Your exposure values are a bit low, which you noticed (the edited version of the Polar Bear photo). Auto-exposure “tries” to hit the right average exposure for the scene. If there are large white (ice and snow) or large very dark objects/background in the scene, it will “fool” the auto-exposure. If your camera has an exposure compensation feature, then you can force it to over- or under-expose: In this case, over-expose to get more natural tones.
Or: just don’t worry about it! (You can also correct in software, if you process in SW. Most people don’t.)
I don’t know if you have an iphone; but iphone SW is amazingly good at “figuring out” the scene and compensating the exposure accordingly. There’s got to be some image analysis AI working in there. (I have never used other smart phones, they may do the same.)
Amazing photos again, and I never imagined the ice would be that blue. It is good that they let you have some time watching the polar bear and didn’t just rush away. It must have been fascinating to see.
Really no words can capture my impression – again, at a loss, it borders on the numinous …
Just WOW.
Fantastic! What an experience. Thanks for sharing with us.
Thanks for sharing this voyage with us. A question: when you travel, you eat a lot. Do you gain weight?
Marvellous photos of the polar bear and dead whale, Jerry. What a sight!
Looks like a candidate for the fat bear contest.
WOW! Only 322 miles from the North Pole??!!
Thank you for sharing your trip with us! I am travelling vicariously with you.