The highlight of the day is that I finally got a terrific meal, and at an out-of-the-way bistro that one of Winnie’s foodie friends recommended, knowing that I like to leave a restaurant full. That was no problem with this one, Le Trousseau d’Or (it could be translated as “the golden clothes”, but also as “the golden bunch”, and probably I’m wrong on both).
At any rate, it’s a small place in the 11th, easily overlooked, and the website food page simply says “a different menu every day”.
The cozy interior, where we had comfortable plush seats by the window:
The small menu was written outside on a chalkboard: four entrées and four plats.
The first entrée listed was a mystery to me, but Winnie explained that “burrata” is a round cheese with a skin. Wikipedia explains:
Burrata (Italian pronunciation: [burˈrata]) is an Italian cow milk (occasionally buffalo milk) cheese made from mozzarella and cream. The outer casing is solid cheese, while the inside contains stracciatella and clotted cream, giving it an unusual, soft texture. It is typical of Puglia.
Well, I had to try that, and it arrived as a large plate surrounded by apricots, green beans, preserved tomato, and a drizzle of sauce. It was absolutely terrific (and filling), and the burrata was fantastic, with a thin skin on the outside that, when pierced, revealed a soft creamy interior that paired well with the fruits and veggies. It was a good start.
Winnie likes seafood, and so had the octopus to start. Tentacles!
For the main course I chose the lamb shank “confit” (probably preserved in fat), which also came with lots of veggies including tiny whole potatoes. It, too, was delicious, tender and juicy (and large!). With it I had a glass of Bordeaux, as I’ve cut down on my lunch wine since I overdid it the other day. At this point I realized that this was going to be an excellent meal.
Again going for seafood, Winnie had an item not on the menu, Filet de daurade, or sea bream, served with mashed sweet potatoes and vegetables.
Finally the young patron rattled off the dessert list, but when I heard “riz au lait“, or rice pudding, I had to have it, as it’s one of my favorites. I had a choice of ice cream on the side, and chose chocolate caramel. The pudding was warm and delicious, and the ice cream slowly melted into it:
The portion wasn’t large, but Winnie told me I could probably ask for more pudding if I wanted (this was in memory of the Basque bistro L’Ami Jean, which used to serve the best rice pudding, but also in huge bowls left on the table so you could help yourself (there were also side dishes like jam, pralines, and fruit). Sadly, they stopped that practice, and I no longer go there.
Had I not been full already from the previous two courses, I would have asked for more. But I was replete. Winnie eschewed dessert as we were going to meet a friend of hers in a local café, where we shot the breeze for a while.
We noticed that there were tons of cops around the area, not knowing that the pro-Palestinian demonstration was forming nearby. We didn’t see it, but security was tight. Two cops came into the café for some joe (or jean) (Photo by Winnie).
The route of the demonstration:
So far, this was the best meal I’ve had on this trip—by far. The menu is small and the items are prepared with great care, so I’d go back enthusiastically, and recommend it to those who want a spiffy bistro meal in Paris (it was no more expensive than my regular haunts).
Wandering around the restaurant beforehand, I found several items of interest. Here’s an old record shop; you may recognize some of the vinyl. Nico!
And there was a cat-named café nearby, which I learned meant “The hunchbacked cat”. See the cat on the right?
And an enlargement of the chat:
Finally, this lovely building nearby turned out to be a shelter for homeless women, or rather a place for them to live. It was quite lovely:
After that: a hot cup of Darjeeling tea in a nearby café (coffee in the afternoon keeps me awake at night). The subways are all screwed up by the demonstrations, and I had to take a long detour to get to this area. Today, with the anti-antisemitic demonstration, many of the stops are closed.