Culinary delights of the Lower East Side: Katz’s

October 25, 2010 • 5:38 am

The most famous culinary landmark of New York’s Lower East Side is Katz’s Delicatessen.  No doubt their estimable pastrami contributes to this, but the biggest factor was the deli’s appearance in the movie “When Harry Met Sally” (see below).

Katz’s, at 205 E. Houston Street, opened in 1888—it may be New York’s oldest restaurant.  While the Lower East Side is now only marginally Jewish, with most of my kinsmen having fled to Scarsdale or “uptown,” it retains several of the establishments that made it a culinary Mecca for all New Yorkers.  My nephew, Steven, just moved to New York to study film at Columbia. On my recent swing through the east coast, I decided to give the lad a taste of his heritage.  We had only one day, and several establishments to visit.  This made for a real pig-out, but all of those places are within a few blocks.

No trip to the Lower East is complete without a sandwich at Katz’s.  It’s unprepossessing from the outside:

But what gustatory treats lie within! You get a ticket at the door and present it at the counter.  To get a sandwich (pastrami is de rigeur) you go one-on-one with a counterman—the guy who slices the brisket.  You should leave a buck in the cup for a better sandwich, and by all means get it on rye bread, with the meat fatty. (You can ask for “lean” if you’re either watching the fat or you’re one of those misguided folks who regard food as medicine, but I wouldn’t recommend it.)  If you ask nicely they’ll give you a sample before making your sandwich.

Note the prices: they are HIGH (click twice to make the photos huge).  I actually prefer the pastrami at the Carnegie Deli uptown (their sandwiches are larger, too), but the old-time atmosphere at Katz’s is unmatchable:

Sadly, my nephew is a neophyte and insisted on getting corned beef (which is also good, but not as stratospheric as the pastrami); and since we were on an all-day nosh, we split a sandwich so I had to have that too.

My nephew nomming half a sandwich.  Can you spot his second culinary mistake? He’s having a beer.  All the cognoscenti know that there is only one thing suitable for drinking with pastrami or corned beef: Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray Tonic (you can see my own can at lower right).  It’s a celery-flavored soda whose sweetness and vegetal flavor perfectly complement the salted meat.  For some reason Steven thought the elixir ghastly, and too sweet.  (I still have hopes for him, though.)

Here’s a photo that Katz’s used for advertising during World War II.  Lucky was the Jewish soldier who got a salami in the foxhole!  (No pun intended.)  I love this photo because it really tweaks the strings of my DNA.  How much more Jewish can you get?

But, as I said above, what really made Katz’s famous among the goyim was its appearance in a crucial scene of “When Harry Met Sally,” for the deli is where the shiksa Sally (played by Meg Ryan) demonstrated to Harry (played by Billy Crystal) how a woman can fake an orgasm.  Although the movie wasn’t great, this scene certainly is.  Be sure to watch all the way to the end.  The appearance of Katz’s here is surely no accident: both the director, Rob Reiner, and the screenwriter, Nora Ephron, are landsmen.

Note that the shiksa is having turkey—and disassembles her sandwich—while Harry has corned beef.

For more on Katz’s, and some mouth-watering photos, read the Roadfood review.

The bialy

October 24, 2010 • 10:58 am

From Kossar’s (full name: Kossar’s Bialystoker Kuchen Bakery) on New York’s Grand Street.  Bagels are fine, but give me a warm bialy any time.  With its crisp bits of onion nestled snugly into a golden pillow of toothsome chewiness, this is the ideal substrate for lox and a schmear—or can be eaten, as I usually do, walking out of the bakery.

By popular demand (mine), this is Jewish Food of the Lower East Side Week.

Reference:  The Bialy Eaters:  The Story of a Bread and a Lost World, by Mimi Sheraton

How to make them.

Moar evidence for evolution

October 24, 2010 • 7:31 am

. . . as if you needed any.  I always photograph skeletons of sea mammals that show a vestigial pelvis or hindlimbs.  Here’s the skeleton of a killer whale, Orcinus orca, suspended from the ceiling of the new “northwest building” in Harvard’s science quad.  Note the vestigial pelvis dangling from wires attached to the spine (click to enlarge).

In the background is the Museum of Comparative Zoology (MCZ), home to many famous scientists since its foundation by Louis Agassiz in 1859. (These included, in my day, Ernst Mayr, Alfred Romer, and Steve Gould.) I spent many wonderful hours of my graduate student-hood in this building.  Sadly, it may be gutted to provide office space for other departments, with the collections and exhibits moved from Cambridge to Allston.  I dearly hope this doesn’t happen.

Epigenetics: the light and the way?

October 24, 2010 • 6:44 am

How often do you see an editor of a scientific journal complain that a field is overhyped?   Well, you can see it this week in Current Biology, where Florian Maderspacher, the senior reviews editor, takes out after the current penchant of  journalists to see epigenetics as the Great Missing Piece of Biology—a field that will completely revolutionize Darwinism and our view of inheritance. (I take epigenetics to mean “inheritance not based on coding changes in the DNA”.)  The title of Maderspacher’s piece pretty much says it all: “Lysenko rising.” (Sadly, it seems to be behind a paywall.)

This isn’t the first time we’ve encountered journalistic hype about epigenetics: last March there was a dire puff-piece in the Guardian asserting that epigenetics was the death knell of Darwinism.  I went after it, arguing that while epigenetics was a novel and important new phenomenon in genetics and development, it wasn’t poised to completely revise our view of evolution for three reasons.

First, epigenetically inherited changes in DNA and protein, like methylated bits of DNA, ultimately rest on “normal” mutations in DNA that affect those changes. Things get methylated because the nucleotide bases in DNA code for that methylation.  How can “nongenetic” changes in DNA reside in the DNA? Here’s one way.  There are genes whose DNA sequence tells them to do this: “put methyl groups on another bit of DNA if you detect that you’re in the body of a male.  Don’t do that if you’re in the body of a female.”  Males and females would thus have the same DNA code, but it would be used differently depending on the DNA’s “environment”—for example, different hormone titers in males vs. females.  The two sexes would then have produce different types of modified DNA even though their primary DNA sequences were identical.  These modifications usually last only one generation, and then are reset when the DNA finds itself in a new body that could be of a different sex.

Second, as I just noted, in nearly all cases the epigenetic modifications are not inherited past one or two generations, so they can’t serve as lasting templates for evolutionary change.  Insofar as those changes are important in evolution, they must ultimately reside in the primary nucleotide sequence of DNA, the genetic material.

Finally, those who tout the importance of epigenetics in evolution, most notably Eva Jablonka and Marion Lamb, keep trotting out the same handful of tired examples, like changes in toadflax and mouse coat color, that are inherited only temporarily and have nothing to do with evolution.

Maderspacher was cheesed off because the latest issue of his German magazine Der Spiegel devoted ten pages to epigenetics, including a racy cover of a nude nymph whose naughty bits were conveniently occluded by DNA-shaped splashes:

Florian translates this as “THE VICTORY OVER THE GENES. Smarter, healthier, happier: how we can outwit our genome.”  And he explains that this is not a one-off bit of hype:

Epigenetics is of course being considered ‘sexy’ in vast circles of the scientific world (and has attracted the funding to go with it), but that Spiegel cover was a different type of ‘sexy’. This kind of public attention seemed unusual: molecular biology rarely makes it to the front page. And what’s more, this wasn’t just some German oddity: Newsweek had last year a similar cover story, touting a revolution in biology in gonzo-journalism style: “Roll over, Mendel. Watson and Crick? They are so your old man’s version of DNA”. Likewise, the New York Times is in tune, as a news piece last year celebrated the role of the ‘epigenome’ in controlling “which genes are on or off”; nor is the hype confined to the popular press, as a recent editorial in Nature also noted that: “genome sequences, within and across species, were too similar to be able to explain the diversity of life. It was instead clear that epigenetics — those changes to gene expression caused by chemical modification of DNA and its associated proteins — could explain much about how these similar genetic codes are expressed uniquely in different cells, in different environmental conditions and at different times”.

And the wonders of epigenetics, at least in this piece, came down to the same tired old data:

The article itself was mainly concerned with listing examples supporting the notion that ‘genes aren’t everything’: on the one hand, cases where genetic predisposition, e.g. for adiposity, does not lead to the development of that phenotype, as well as the much-discussed weaknesses in genome-wide association studies to pick up causative genetic agents for common diseases; on the other hand, examples of how the environment can influence the genome, evident for instance as differences in DNA modifications between monozygotic twins in different environments and lifestyles. The piece culminated in bold statements like: “Epigenetics is the long sought link through which the environment influences the hereditary material [… and it] currently leads to a dramatic new understanding of human biology”.

In other words, neo-Lamarckism: the inheritance of acquired characteristics.  Well, in one way that’s true: stuff like methylation is an “acquired” characteristic that can be passed on for one or a few generations.  But it’s acquired via genetic instructions in the DNA, and it’s inherited for only a handful of generations. So, while important, it’s not a dramatic new paradigm of genetics. As Maderspacher says,

There is thus no need to construe a dichotomy between the power of the genes and the power of the environment — a molecular version of the ancient nature vs. nurture debate. The environment influences the phenotype through the genes. There is no contrast, no one over whom to achieve ‘victory’.

Indeed.  I’m not sure I agree with Maderspacher’s analysis of the reasons why this misconception is so important.  He floats the idea that Germans are particularly fond of  it “for historic reasons,” that is, because it apparently contradicts the hegemony of genetic determinism that undergirded Nazi racist ideology. But ultimately he lays the hype at the feet of Marxism, which trumpets the malleability of the individual by the environment. (This is where Lysenko comes in—the Russian agronomist whose fraudulent claim that one could permanently modify crops by environmental manipulation so impressed Stalin, and so ruined Russian agriculture.)  Maderspacher sees epigenetics as “a kind of lysenkoism for the molecular age.”

Well, maybe the popularity of epigenetics is a vulgarised environmentalist response to the “vulgarised genetic determinism” that so dominates our times.  And maybe that’s why journalists love it, though, as Maderspacher notes, they love anything that smacks of an overthrown paradigm—especially Darwinian evolution.  Regardless, he sees this kind of buzz-journalism as injurious to the public understanding of science, and I agree 100%:

Therefore, a larger frame has to be invoked, far-fetched as it may be. Building around the story is a legitimate literary technique to some extent, but becomes dangerous when the frame interferes with the presentation and interpretation of empirical data. In effect, it’s not far from what Lysenko did, and makes the whole purpose of science journalism questionable. It won’t cost lives as Lysenko’s mad ideas — after all, it’s only molecular biology — but the public have a right to be informed correctly. First, because they pay for the research. Second, because at the very least they need to know that science, and genetics in particular, cannot give them simple answers about who they are and how they should live, and neither can epigenetics. They’ll have to work that out for themselves and let Lysenko lie.

Well done!  But I’d go further and include among the miscreants those scientists—especially those evolutionists—who argue in the face of the data that epigenetics will overthrow conventional ideas about evolution and natural selection. Unlike journalists, they know better.

I get nice letters, too

October 23, 2010 • 8:02 am

UPDATE:  The guy who wrote this letter will be reading this (you’ve probably guessed that already), so if you have any words of advice or support, by all means let fly.

_______________________

Emails like this one (posted with the writer’s permission) make it all worthwhile.  I can’t boast a “converts’ corner” like the one Dawkins has, but as Lao Tzu said, “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.”

The point here is not to brag about my conversion skills, but to show that “militant” atheism does not completely turn people away from evolution—or science in general.  Granted, this email is an anecdote,  but could we please see some testimony from religious people saying, “You know, I really liked Richard Dawkins’s books, but in the end I found that I couldn’t buy the idea of evolution because he’s such a loudmouth atheist”?

Dr. Coyne,

I hope I’m not bugging you at your work email, but I couldn’t find a contact address on your website (besides for your publisher). Sorry if you’ve got a site-specific one and I didn’t see it.

You mentioned in your post yesterday (“Religion doesn’t make people nice”) that you get a lot of hate mail. So I just wanted to do something different and just say “thanks.” I’ve been lurking around your website ever since the infamous home-schooling article from the AP included a link to this strange place called whyevolutionistrue. I’m not much of a commenter, but I have your blog linked to the very top of my phone’s RSS reader. It’s the first thing I check in the morning. (And at lunch, and just before dinner.)

I really appreciate what you’re doing for the advancement of reason in this country. It’s not just affecting those who are already “in the know.” People like me are starting to wake up and smell the evidence. I’m a 25-year-old fellow from the backwoods of the Appalachias with little education to speak of. I was raised Southern Baptist, donated time and money to the Discovery Institute, and participated in anti-evolution debates and seminars. I was one of the True Believers who would tell someone straight to their face that they were going to hell if they didn’t kneel down that instant and accept Lord Jesus into their hearts. And I’d say it with a smile.

It was actually my interest in biology that led me into creationism. That hunger to know about the intricacies of life on this planet, though, was quickly sated by the triple-quarter-pounder of bible literalism, what-if speculation, and absolute certainty. It was filling, sure, but for a curious young guy like myself, it sat like a rock in the gut. My biggest regret in my short time here is that I let myself get talked out of going to college to study biology. And, since biology was the only thing in which I ever wanted further education, talking myself out of college in general.

I would have remained in that state of mental stagnation had I not broken the cardinal rule of creationists, which is:  “Never read the stuff from the other side.” I’d grown up reading about the statistical refutations of evolution, the argument of irreducible complexity, and Flood hydrodynamics. There was actually a warning in more than one of these books and courses advising against reading anything published by secular scientists. Satan was clever. He could fool innocent people into believing the lies told by his scientific minions. (Scientific, by the way, is quite the insult among Southern Baptists. Or was in the churches I attended.) Really, I just wanted more ammunition to use for my debates against evolutionists. That was the whole reason I started reading about evolution from the scientific perspective. I wanted to see for myself these great holes in the logic of scientists that I’d been hearing about.

You probably know the rest. The initial rejection of what I’d read, trying to get someone to explain to me why all the evidence pointed toward evolution instead of away, realizing that the answers that I was getting from the creationist side were either evasive, inconsistent, or deceitful. And the long, slow, painful process of shedding a belief I’ve had instilled in me since childhood.

The whole point of this mini-autobiography is that if people like you weren’t out there making such a ruckus, then people like me wouldn’t have the chance to break out of the destructive, irrational belief system that serves as a mental and moral cage. I know you don’t need me to tell you to, but I hope you’ll keep on being a strident, arrogant, uncompromising bastard. The world needs more like you.

Thanks again,

Name redacted

Note: As far as I can, I’ve verified the writer’s identity.  And for those of you who worry that this letter is too well written to come from a person with “little education,” read The Elegance of the Hedgehog. When I complimented the writer on his epistolary skills, he replied, “I appreciate the compliment. Though I am uneducated in the traditional sense, I’m a voracious reader. I believe that if you read widely and densely enough, you’ll pick up a smidgeon of good grammar just through osmosis.”

Shark jaws

October 23, 2010 • 5:50 am

Here are two more photos from my immensely edifying visit to Jim Krupa’s lab at The University of Kentucky.  They show the extreme diversity of morphology that evolution can produce in a single group.

The first shows the jaw of what I remember as a tiger shark, Galeocerdo cuvier.  National Geographic notes that “They have sharp, highly serrated teeth and powerful jaws that allow them to crack the shells of sea turtles and clams. The stomach contents of captured tiger sharks have included stingrays, sea snakes, seals, birds, squids, and even license plates and old tires.”

The rows of teeth are lined up, waiting in the wings, to be replaced after one on duty is lost. The teeth aren’t embedded in the jaw, but merely in the gum tissue.  Wikipedia has a good article on them.

Sharks are in the class Chondrichthyes:  they have cartilage rather than bone.  The subclass Elasmobranchii includes sharks, skates and rays.  And the tiger shark is in the largest order of elasmobranchs, the Carcharhiniformes.

And here’s one of the weirdest elasmobranchs—the jaw of the Port Jackson shark (Heterodontus portusjacksoni), endemic to Australian waters.  It’s in the order Heterodontiformes (“bull sharks”), distinguished, among other things, by having the mouth completely in front of the eyes. The “Heterodontus” part of the genus name means “different teeth,” and that’s indeed what you see, spectacularly, in the jaw.  Having differentiated teeth in the jaw is very rare in sharks:

The small teeth in front are for grabbing and piercing, the ones at the rear for grinding up stuff, especially molluscs.  The Florida Museum of Natural History site notes:

This species feeds primarily on echinoderms, crustaceans, molluscs, and some small fish. Sea urchins and large gastropod molluscs are noted in almost every study on the diets of Port Jackson sharks. Stomach contents are typically ground up too small for full identification, thus leading researchers to believe Port Jackson sharks grind their food thoroughly before swallowing. This is also supported with juvenile diets, since it has been noted that juveniles eat more soft-bodied animals, and contain less molar-like teeth.

Here’s what the jaws look like in situ:

For $750 you can actually buy a Port Jackson shark for your aquarium, but I’m not sure why anyone would do that, as they grow over five feet long.

You can see the variety of sharks’ teeth here, and if you’re into buying recent or fossil teeth, here’s a place to start,

Caturday felids: Maru sells out (plus reader bonus)

October 23, 2010 • 4:56 am

Okay, this is bad.  World famous Japanese cat Maru, who has his own blog, has just appeared in a Fresh Step cat litter commercial aired in the U.S.  The video shows his spectacular box-diving talents, but how much money did he make? Did it go to his owner or to him? And will it be used to feed the boy up, making him unable to jump into boxes?

I’m worried that success will spoil Maru. His owner already follows him into his litter box with a camera, turning what should be a moment of blissful privacy into an international spectacle.  And she’s posted photos of Maru’s butt, objectifying the poor boy.

And this, courtesy of reader Martin who photographed a store in Kyoto, Japan that sells maneki neko, or “good luck cats”.

We all need one of these; here’s mine:


Do remember that you can send me your cat-related photos. I can’t promise to post them, but if they’re cool they stand a good chance.  And soon we’ll have a reader’s cat contest, where your own puss can vie to become Top Cat.  If you have a beloved felid, by all means photograph it in a winsome pose.