My boots, under construction by Lee Miller in Austin, Texas, are coming along nicely. Today we see how the panels are fastened to both the vamp (the foot part) and the counters (the heel part), as well as how the panels are sewn together in pairs. Beyond the soles and insoles, there are basically four pieces of leather on the outside of each boot: the shaft (two parts, sewn together on the sides), the vamp, and the counters.
But there’s still a ways to go after this post: the toe boxes have to be made, giving the square toe, these must then be fastened to the vamps, and then the whole top must be put back over the last (the mold of my foot) so that the insole, outsole, and heel can be fastened to the boot. This is a complex operation, as you’ll see.
The captions and photos are, as always, by Carrlyn Miller, and are indented:
All four panels are done and now it’s time to put the vamps on.

But, first we need to stitch the toe flower on.

Here you see the vamps, the hard counters and the pattern for the toe flower (upper right).
Lee stitching the toe flower.
Another view.
The underside of the vamp with the toe flower sewn on.
Now it’s time to attach the hard counters.
The hard counters are on, cemented and drying.
Ready to put the kangaroo counter on the hard counter.
Lee applying the kangaroo to the hard counter.
It’s on.
Time to sew everything on.
The counters are sewn on the back panels.
The vamps are sewn onto the front panels and are now ready to be side seamed.
The boots have been side seamed and are now ready to have the pull straps attached.
Lee sewing the pull straps.
Again, another view.
Pulling the tabs of the pull straps through to be sewn down.
The pull straps are on, and the boots turned. Ready to last. [JAC: In this photo you see how the mirror writing appears from the side: a true mirror image of the script that makes it look more like art than calligraphy.]

















In your dotage – long may that hold off! at least with these on you will remember your name 😉
Those are gonna be some bad-ass boots, Dr. Coyne.
This is one of those things where cost of materials,although considerable, are insignificant.
Actually, boot leather isn’t cheap, though if you get alligator or other high-end hides, it can constitute a major part of the final price.
Hey, Nice Post. I like it…..
I love to see skilled crafts like boot making still surviving! Beautiful work and beautiful boots.
Wow and to think that in a few years my sons may actually purchase shoes for most of their lives that will be made from vats of polymers added to additive manufacturing machines, assembled by robots, without the touch of a single human.
Wow! Really taking shape now & they’re going to be awesome looking boots!
This is quite the artistic process! If those were mine, I might wear them only when I go to London to visit the Queen!
I’m still suffering cobbler’s dissonance. Every (“eavery”, not ” most”) hole in the leather is a leak path.
I know – different climates, different purposes.
But I still see any un-necessary hole and feel the peat bog squeezing through, soaking my sock and guaranteeing a rub point, then a blister.
Q.V. previous conversation about leather care. But still one feels holes and leak paths to be synonymous.
My son just bought shoes for 200.00 i said someone is going to steal them because thats what they do. So watch out for those new boots they look really nice.
Looking fantastic, PCC, you must be very pleased!